Issue 002 / Contents

What lasts
isn’t a face.
It’s an attitude.

Editor's Note / Issue 002

Some images
deserve more time.

I started NOT THAT MAG because I wanted more time with the work.

The first issue came from a simple feeling: some images deserve more space than a post on a feed. With Issue 002, that feeling becomes more defined.

This issue looks at male beauty, visibility, performance, softness, discipline, and the strange pressure of being seen now. Some of these stories started as editorials. Some became conversations. Some turned into questions I kept thinking about after the shoot was over.

Baptiste Giabiconi opens the issue with a kind of image that already carries fashion history. Ty Larson brings a younger rhythm, more physical, playful, and connected to the way images move now. Peter Finn, Cale Millen, Ryan Park, Kwaku Ansong, and the rest of this issue expand that conversation in different directions.

For me, photographing is never only about the final image. It is about the time around it. The talking. The observing. The small decisions. The things people reveal when there is enough room.

NOT THAT MAG is still based in New York, still independent, still image-led. But Issue 002 feels like the beginning of a clearer voice.

Some images deserve more time.

Ton Gomes
Founder and Editor

Editorial / Issue 002

Baptiste Giabiconi

The image that lasts.

Photographed by Ton Gomes
New York, 2026
Icon / intimacy / aftermath
Baptiste Giabiconi photographed by Ton Gomes for NOT THAT MAG Issue 002
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The Portrait Session / Issue 002

Baptiste Giabiconi

Image, discipline, and staying power.

For years, Baptiste Giabiconi has existed inside a very specific kind of image: polished, recognizable, and often projected onto before he speaks. But behind the surface, there is work, discipline, doubt, sensitivity, and a clear understanding of what it takes to remain.

People have had a certain image of you for years. What do they still misunderstand about you?

I think a lot of people still stop at the surface. They see the polished model image, but they don’t always realize the work, discipline, and doubts behind it. I’m very demanding with myself, and probably more sensitive than people expect.

Does the idea of a top model still exist in the same way today?

It has definitely evolved. Back then, it felt almost untouchable, very exclusive. Today, with social media, visibility is more accessible, but also more fleeting. To me, being a top model now is not just about walking or shooting. It’s about building a strong, lasting identity.

In a career so focused on appearance, what has taught you the most on a deeper level?

That appearance is never enough. This career taught me resilience, patience, and most importantly, the importance of staying true to yourself. What lasts isn’t a face. It’s an attitude.

What kind of image do you no longer want to create?

Images that don’t mean anything. Today, I need to understand what I’m doing and why I’m doing it. I’m drawn to projects that tell a story and have a real artistic direction.

What’s your personal routine to feel good, look your best, and keep up with the pace?

It’s all about balance. Regular workouts, a clean diet, as much sleep as possible, but also taking time for myself. Resetting and disconnecting is essential in this industry.

For young models starting today, what matters most beyond visibility?

Consistency. Anyone can have a moment of visibility, but very few know how to last. You need to be professional, reliable, and most importantly, not lose yourself along the way.

When you’re in New York, what do you enjoy most outside of work?

The energy of the city. You can be anonymous and visible at the same time. I like walking around, observing, and discovering places without overplanning.

Is there a place in New York you always go back to or would recommend?

Central Park, always. The contrast with the rest of the city is incredible. And rooftops at sunset. There’s something truly special about that moment.

What does it take to last in fashion today?

Knowing how to evolve without losing yourself. Things move fast, so you have to adapt, but keep a clear direction. And above all, stay professional. That never goes out of style.

If you could give advice to your younger self, what would it be?

Don’t rush things. Enjoy the moment, learn, trust the process, and always stay true to who you are.

Cultural essay / Ton Gomes

Can a male
supermodel
happen again?

On 90s mythology, male beauty, and the new machinery of visibility.

There was a time when a face could become universal. Not viral. Not trending. Universal. In the 1990s, the supermodel did not become super only because she was beautiful. Beauty was the beginning, not the explanation.

What made those models feel larger than fashion was the system around them: the magazines, the photographers, the campaigns, the music videos, the television appearances, the billboards, the repetition. A small group of people could decide that a face mattered, and then the whole culture would be asked to look at it again and again. That kind of concentration is almost impossible to imagine now.

The famous January 1990 British Vogue cover photographed by Peter Lindbergh, with Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, and Tatjana Patitz, became one of the defining images of that era. Soon after, George Michael placed some of those same faces inside the video for Freedom! ’90, turning fashion visibility into pop culture mythology. It was not just a magazine moment anymore. It became a shared cultural image.

That is what the 90s did so well. It took a model and repeated her until she became an idea. The face did not live in one place. It moved from Vogue to MTV, from runway to campaign, from billboard to television, from fashion people to people who did not follow fashion at all. That movement is what made the image feel permanent.

Menswear existed inside that same machine, but never with the same voltage. Male models were present, visible, and often iconic inside fashion, but only a few became recognizable outside the industry. Tyson Beckford, Marcus Schenkenberg, Mark Vanderloo, and a small group of others helped define the male fashion image of that period, but the cultural scale was different. The women became mythology. The men became references.

That difference was not just cultural. It was structural. Women’s fashion had more money, more fantasy, more advertising power, and more public attention. The female supermodel could sell clothing, beauty, luxury, celebrity, aspiration, and lifestyle all at once. Male beauty was desirable, but it was not industrialized at the same scale.

Still, menswear had its exceptions. Tyson Beckford is probably the clearest example of a male model who came closest to the full supermodel idea. His 1994 Polo Sport campaign for Ralph Lauren did not just sell clothes. It created an image of masculinity that was athletic, beautiful, commercial, and culturally visible. His face moved through fashion, advertising, television, and popular imagination in a way that very few male models have managed since.

A supermodel is not just a successful model. A supermodel is a model whose image leaves fashion and starts living somewhere else. A good model can carry a garment. A great model can define a mood. A supermodel becomes shorthand for a time, a desire, a body, a fantasy, a way of being looked at.

The question is whether that can still happen now, especially in menswear. Not because men are less visible. The opposite is true. Men are everywhere. The problem is that everyone is.

This is why Baptiste Giabiconi is such an interesting figure for this conversation. His image was shaped through Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel, Fendi, editorials, campaigns, and a kind of old-school authorship that still believed in the power of one person repeatedly constructing one face. Baptiste belongs to a bridge era. He came from a world where fashion still had strong gatekeepers, but he remains visible in a world where those gates have cracked open.

Today, everyone is visible. We have more faces than ever. More platforms. More agencies. More photographers. More people watching. More people being watched. A model can be seen thousands of times before ever appearing in a magazine. A face can circulate before it has been formally introduced. But circulation is not the same as permanence.

In the 90s, scarcity created impact. Today, visibility is decentralized. A magazine cover still matters, but it no longer guarantees mass attention in the same way. It gives context, credibility, and cultural weight. It does not monopolize the room. The old question was: who gets chosen? The new question is: who can remain distinct after everyone has been seen?

Alton Mason is one of the clearest contemporary examples of this new model. He does not operate only as a model. He moves through fashion, performance, image, movement, personality, and culture. That may be the new formula. The male supermodel today cannot just be a mannequin for desire. He has to be a carrier of meaning.

Social media gives models direct visibility, but it also makes them replaceable faster. Brands can work with creators, celebrities, athletes, actors, musicians, or AI-generated faces. The model is no longer the only body available to fashion. When every face can become content, the real challenge is not being seen. It is being remembered. Visibility is a moment. Image is architecture.

The next male supermodel, if he exists, will not be made only by campaigns or covers. He will have to move across systems: editorial, runway, social media, film, music, personal style, brand identity, maybe even business. He will need to be recognizable not just as a body, but as a point of view.

So maybe the question is not whether the male supermodel can happen again. Maybe the better question is: what would make one necessary? A face becomes powerful when it answers something the culture is already asking.

The next male supermodel will not be the man everyone sees. Everyone is already seen. He will be the one people return to. The one whose image still holds after the scroll. The one who can be photographed many times and still not feel finished. The one who does not disappear when the algorithm moves on. The one who can carry clothes, but also carry a cultural mood.

The 90s made icons through scarcity. Now, if it happens again, it will happen through distinction. Not the loudest face. Not the most followed face. The one that lasts. Fashion does not need another viral man. It needs someone whose image can survive its own circulation. Not whether a face can be seen by millions. That part is easy. The question is whether, after everyone has looked, there is still a reason to look again.

Recommended readingThe Age of the SupermodelVogue on 90s Male ModelsAshley Mears on Modeling and Fashion LaborIAB Creator Economy Ad Spend & Strategy ReportGQ Profile on Alton Mason

Editorial / Issue 002

Peter Finn

Classic form, interrupted by the city.

Photographed by Ton Gomes
New York, 2026
Uniform / daylight / shadow
Peter Finn photographed by Ton Gomes for NOT THAT MAG Issue 002
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Editorial / Issue 002

Jake Boffman

Performance held just before it becomes pose.

Photographed by Ton Gomes
New York, 2026
Gesture / repetition / impact
Jake Boffman photographed by Ton Gomes for NOT THAT MAG Issue 002
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Editorial / Issue 002

Ryan Park & Kwaku Ansong

Two bodies. One sculptural proposition.

Photographed by Ton Gomes
New York, 2026
Object / silhouette / exchange
Ryan Park & Kwaku Ansong photographed by Ton Gomes for NOT THAT MAG Issue 002
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Cultural essay / Ton Gomes

Did the
metrosexual
come back?

On grooming, looksmaxxing, soft masculinity, and the new machinery of self-image.

There was a time when a man buying moisturizer needed an explanation. Not because men had never cared about appearance before. They always had. But in the early 2000s, culture needed a new word to make that care visible, funny, marketable, and slightly less threatening. That word was metrosexual.

It sounded urban, modern, a little suspicious, and very useful. It gave the media a way to talk about a man who cared about clothes, hair, skin, fragrance, restaurants, shopping, body, and the way he was seen. He was not exactly new, but the packaging was.

The term was coined by British writer Mark Simpson in 1994, but it became part of mainstream conversation in the United States in the early 2000s, especially after his 2002 Salon essay, Meet the Metrosexual. David Beckham became the easiest image for the idea because he made the contradiction feel safe. He was an athlete, a husband, a father, a sex symbol, a fashion object, and a grooming obsessive.

The metrosexual gave men permission to be looked at, but only under certain conditions. He could care about skincare, clothes, fragrance, hair, body, and shopping, as long as culture could still file him under aspiration. He had to be stylish, but not too soft. Vain, but not fragile. Polished, but still attached to sports, women, money, status, or some other familiar masculine anchor.

Looking back now, the whole thing feels almost innocent: a man buying face cream, wearing a better shirt, taking too long to fix his hair, learning how to be seen without acting like he wanted to be seen. That was the old tension. Now the tension is different. The metrosexual did not really come back. He became normal first. Then he dissolved into the feed.

Today, the same male desire to look better appears in much stranger and more fragmented forms: skincare routines, gym discipline, fragrance collections, jawline tutorials, TikTok face analysis, redpill podcasts, male manicures, soft tailoring, body dysmorphia, gender-fluid styling, supplement stacks, cosmetic procedures, and a boy filming himself under bathroom light trying to decide if his face is symmetrical enough.

The old metrosexual was built by magazines. The new man is built by platforms. In the 2000s, the male image still came from above. Editors, celebrities, photographers, brands, campaigns. Today, the image comes from everywhere at once: a model, a creator, a gym account, a dermatologist, a redpill clip, a Reddit forum, a TikTok trend, a friend’s story, a fragrance review, a before-and-after photo.

The mirror is no longer just the mirror. It is the front camera, the algorithm, the comment section, and the silent comparison with a thousand other men you did not ask to see before breakfast. The early 2000s sold polish. The 2020s sell correction.

That is where looksmaxxing becomes important. It takes the language of self-improvement and applies it to the face like a business plan: jawline, symmetry, skin, hairline, eye shape, body fat, muscle, height, sexual market value. Everything becomes measurable, improvable, and somehow your fault.

The other day, the algorithm served me one of those videos of the boy people call Clavicular online. He appears hitting his own face with a hammer, trying to reshape the bones of his face into a sharper jawline. At first it looks too extreme to be real, almost like internet theater. Then it becomes uncomfortable, because the logic behind it is not that far from what the internet is already selling to men every day: fix the face, improve the angle, increase the value, become harder to reject.

A face becomes a project. A flaw becomes a task. The body becomes something to punish until it finally starts behaving like an image. The metrosexual wanted permission to care. The looksmaxxer feels like he is already behind.

This does not mean grooming is bad. There is pleasure in caring for yourself. There is power in style. There is confidence in learning what works for your face, your body, your hair, your clothes. For many men, grooming is not a trap. It is a door. The problem is that the meaning of grooming has changed. For one man, skincare is care. For another, it is competition. For another, it is status. For another, control. For another, softness. For another, content. Same product, different wound.

This is where the redpill world sits too close to beauty culture for comfort. On the surface, they seem separate. One is grooming. The other is resentment, hierarchy, dating anxiety, gender politics, male grievance. But both often begin in the same place: the fear of not being enough.

In redpill logic, grooming is not expression. It is leverage. The body, the watch, the haircut, the apartment, the income, the jawline, the posture. Everything becomes part of a system of advantage. You are not getting dressed. You are preparing for a market.

At the same time, another male image is happening in the opposite direction. Softer, more decorative, more open, less interested in proving hardness all the time. Harry Styles, Jacob Elordi, Troye Sivan, Omar Apollo, Bad Bunny, A$AP Rocky, Ncuti Gatwa, Colman Domingo. Different men, different bodies, different identities, different relationships to fashion, but all part of a wider shift in how male beauty can appear in public.

This man is not the metrosexual either. The metrosexual still needed an excuse. The softer man of now seems less interested in giving one. He can wear a manicure as style, not apology. He can wear florals without turning it into a joke. He can be beautiful in a way that is not only athletic, expensive, or aggressive.

So maybe the real question is not whether the metrosexual returned. Maybe the question is why we keep needing a name every time men become visible in a new way. Metrosexual, spornosexual, looksmaxxer, soft boy, redpill guy, clean boy, high-value man, whatever comes next. Every label tries to make the male image easier to understand, but the image keeps splitting.

The cream is not the story. The manicure is not the story. The gym body is not the story. The story is what men think they are trying to become.

So no, the metrosexual did not come back. He became normal. Then he became content. Then he became data. Then he became a market. Then he became something slightly dangerous. Male beauty is now too mainstream to belong to one tribe, and too algorithmic to stay innocent. Men did not get softer. They did not get harder. They got harder to read. And maybe that is exactly where menswear is right now: standing inside the contradiction, getting dressed anyway.

Recommended readingMark Simpson, Meet the MetrosexualGQ, The Metrosexuals Have Been Replaced by the New Self-Obsessed SpornosexualsVogue, The New Rules of Selling Beauty to Gen Z GuysVogue, This Is What Menswear Looks Like in the Age of the ManosphereCommon Sense Media, Boys in the Digital Wild

Editorial / Issue 002

Cale Millen

Soft light, hard line, a face in transition.

Photographed by Ton Gomes
New York, 2026
Skin / structure / city
Cale Millen photographed by Ton Gomes for NOT THAT MAG Issue 002
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Editorial / Issue 002

Ty Larson

A young image built between motion and control.

Photographed by Ton Gomes
New York, 2026
Street / gesture / release
Ty Larson photographed by Ton Gomes for NOT THAT MAG Issue 002
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The Portrait Session / Issue 002

Ty Larson

Routine, rejection, and building a life beyond visibility.

This is the second time I’ve photographed Ty Larson, and what stays with me is how much he enjoys the process. Some models know how to pose. Ty knows how to play with the image. He is open, physical, curious, and not afraid to try something without overthinking it. That kind of energy changes the shoot.

People often meet a model through images before they know anything else. What do you wish they understood about the work behind your image?

I just want people to know the fun times that are had on set, and that it’s a lot more fun and a lot less serious than people may think.

What was the hardest part of becoming a model that people outside the industry rarely see?

I was lucky to have the first agent I ever met with see my potential, but I think being a model can have such strict requirements, so it can feel very daunting when you don’t exactly measure up to those norms. At the end of the day, the only thing you can do is be yourself.

What did modeling teach you about rejection, patience, or timing?

Modeling is one of the only jobs that is 95% rejection and 5% work. You really do need to be patient and be able to not take rejection personally, because it’s never a personal thing. It just means there was someone better fitted for that specific job. You might get placed on hold for 20 jobs before booking one, and I think that just makes your successes even more exciting.

Your work lives in a very fast visual world. What helps you slow down?

Going back home to Vermont and getting outside is the perfect way to slow down. It’s the best home base you could ask for. With beaches, farms, and mountains, there’s never not somewhere to explore.

When you are not working, what kind of routine makes you feel like yourself again?

When I’m not working, maximizing my time outside away from screens is my goal. I like to stick to a routine with the gym every morning, usually with a friend, and then some outdoor activity before a bit of studying in the evening.

Fitness and movement seem to be part of your world. Is that more about discipline, release, or staying grounded?

I think for me fitness is all of the above. It’s something that is truly fun for me and makes me feel better. I’m a very energetic person, so sometimes I need to just really tire myself out. I’ve played multiple sports my whole life and plan on continuing that until I’m dead.

What part of yourself do you try to protect in an industry built around being seen?

With social media being such a big part of my work, I make sure to not let it control me. I don’t want to feel like a slave to my phone, or like I have to post anything. I post when I feel inspired and excited. Other than that, I really don’t go on those apps. I have a fun time creating images that are exactly authentic to myself, because no one else on earth can do that.

When you are in front of the camera, what makes an image feel honest to you?

I think that’s the cool thing about taking a picture. It’s always honest. The camera captures exactly what’s going on at that moment, but I think my favorite pictures are when I’m having fun.

What kind of image are you less interested in making now?

I’m pretty uninterested in creating images for anyone. Work is one thing, but when I’m just being creative, everything I do is what I want to do. That’s what makes it fun for me.

What are you trying to build beyond visibility?

I want to build almost a mood board of my life that I can look back on proudly when I’m older. I love being able to interact with people online and offer guidance for those who ask. Inspiring someone is one of the best things you can do with your life, so I’m happy I’m in a place to do so.

What message would you leave for little Ty?

You didn’t change at all, still happy and curious.

After the Image / Issue 002

Some images
deserve more time.

Issue 002 came from wanting more time with the work, and more space for the questions behind the image.

Ton Gomes
01 / 13